Construction calculator

Free lumber calculator

Turn a pile of measurements into a shopping list: enter the total linear feet of lumber your project needs, the board length you'll buy, and the price per board, and this calculator works out how many boards to put in your cart, the board feet, and the cost — boards, board feet, and dollars all updated live, as you type.

InputsLive
Lumber size

2×6 nominal — actual surfaced size 1.5" × 5.5".

Linear feet needed
ft
Board length
Price per board
$
Waste factorrecommended 10%
%
How the result is calculated
Lumber is bought as whole boards, so the calculator turns your total run into a board count:boards = ceil(linear feet × (1 + waste) ÷ board length)
  • linear feet — the total end-to-end run of this size your project needs
  • board length — the length of one board you buy (8, 10, 12 or 16 ft)
  • waste — extra for offcuts and defects; rounds the board count up
Board feet = nominal thickness × nominal width × linear feet ÷ 12 (a 2×6 is 1 board foot per foot), and cost = boards × price per board.
Check our examples
240 ft of 2×6 → deck frame120 ft of 2×4 → wall framing300 ft of 1×6 → fence pickets
Result
Boards to buy
22 boards
That covers 240 linear ft of 2×6, 12 ft boards with a 10% waste margin — about 240 board feet, an estimated $308.00.
Boards (no waste)20
Boards to buy22
Board feet (needed)240 bf
Board feet (purchased)264 bf
What it costs
ItemQuantityEst. cost
2×6 boards22 × 12 ft$308.00
Per board$14.00

Cost = boards × price per board. Board feet use the nominal size (2×62 × 6), the lumber-yard convention; the actual surfaced size is 1.5" × 5.5". Prices vary by species, grade and market — confirm at the yard.

Board feet use nominal sizes; prices vary by species, grade and supplier. How accurate is this?

Results are estimates. Consult a professional.

How it's calculated

How the lumber calculator works

Lumber is bought as boards of a fixed length — 8, 10, 12, 16 feet — but a project is measured in the total run of material it needs. The lumber calculator bridges the two. You tell it how many linear feet of a given size you need and what length of board you plan to buy; it divides one by the other, rounds up to whole boards because you cannot buy half a board, and adds a waste margin for cuts and defects. From the same inputs it tallies board feet (the volume unit yards sell rough lumber in) and multiplies the board count by your price to estimate the bill.

boards = ceil( linear feet × (1 + waste) ÷ board length )
board feet = nominal thickness(in) × nominal width(in) × linear feet ÷ 12
total cost = boards × price per board
The board-foot formula and the nominal-size convention follow the standard softwood lumber references: a 2×4×8 ft board is (2 × 4 × 8) ÷ 12 = 5.33 board feet using nominal dimensions, not the actual 1.5" × 3.5" face. Counting boards from total linear feet plus a waste allowance follows common framing-estimating practice (Angi, This Old House).

What the result means

The headline is the board count — the number of full-length pieces to put in your cart, waste already included. The board-feet figure is what a yard selling rough hardwood or quoting by volume will price against. The cost is the board count times your per-board price. Buy in whole boards: even if your run divides evenly, defects and end-trimming mean the waste margin keeps you from a second trip to the yard.

Sizing

Nominal vs. actual lumber sizes

A 2×4 is not 2 inches by 4 inches. The number on the bin — the nominal size — is the rough dimension before the board is dried and planed smooth. Drying and surfacing shave off the difference, so the board you carry home is smaller. Length is the exception: a 12-foot board is a full 12 feet (sometimes a hair over for trimming). Only thickness and width shrink.

Nominal sizeActual sizeBoard feet per linear foot
1×40.75" × 3.5"0.33
1×60.75" × 5.5"0.50
2×21.5" × 1.5"0.33
2×41.5" × 3.5"0.67
2×61.5" × 5.5"1.00
2×81.5" × 7.25"1.33
2×101.5" × 9.25"1.67
2×121.5" × 11.25"2.00
4×43.5" × 3.5"1.33

Actual (surfaced-dry) sizes follow the Lowe's / ALSC softwood lumber chart. Board feet per linear foot use the nominal size ÷ 12 — the lumber-yard convention — so a 2×6 is exactly 1 board foot per running foot.

Build with actual, buy with nominal
Use the actual dimensions (1.5" × 3.5" for a 2×4) when you check whether boards fit a wall cavity, stack to a height, or line up at a joint. Use the nominal name (2×4) when you order and when you tally board feet. The calculator does both: nominal for the count and cost, actual shown for reference.
Example

A worked example using the lumber calculator

Example: framing a deck that needs 240 linear feet of 2×6

Maria is building a ground-level deck frame. After laying out the joists, rim and blocking she totals 240 linear feet of 2×6. Her yard stocks 12-foot boards at $14 each, and she wants a 10% waste margin for cuts and the odd cupped board.

Step 1 — Add the waste margin to the run

240 linear feet × 1.10 = 264 linear feet of 2×6 to buy, allowing for offcuts and defects.

Step 2 — Convert the run into whole boards

264 ÷ 12 ft per board = 22 boards exactly, so she needs 22 boards. (Without waste it would be 240 ÷ 12 = 20 boards — the margin adds two.)

Step 3 — Tally the board feet

A 2×6 is 1 board foot per linear foot, so the bare project is 240 board feet; the 22 boards she buys total 22 × 12 = 264 board feet.

Step 4 — Estimate the cost

22 boards × $14 = $308 for the 2×6 framing, before tax and any other sizes the deck needs.

22 boards · 240 board feet · $308
Buying 12-foot boards for a run that divides evenly by 12 means almost no drop waste from length — the 10% margin is covering defects and miscuts here. Where your runs are awkward (lots of 5-foot pieces, say), choosing a board length that cuts cleanly into your part lengths saves more than trimming the waste percentage.
Quick reference

How many boards do I need?

If you want a ballpark before you price anything, this table shows how many whole boards a run takes at common board lengths — bare count, no waste yet. Add 10% (round up) before you buy.

Linear feet needed8 ft boards12 ft boards16 ft boards
50 ft754
100 ft1397
150 ft191310
200 ft251713
300 ft382519
500 ft634232

Bare board counts = ceil(linear feet ÷ board length), no waste. Longer boards mean fewer pieces but more drop waste if your part lengths don't divide evenly — match board length to your cut list where you can.

When to use

When to use this lumber calculator

Reach for it whenever a project is priced in boards but planned in total length — which is most framing and woodworking. It turns a tally of run lengths into a shopping list and a budget.

  • Framing walls and decks — total the studs, plates, joists, rim and blocking into linear feet, then convert to boards.
  • Building fences — rails and pickets bought in fixed lengths from a total run.
  • Furniture and woodworking — where rough stock is sold by the board foot and you need the volume, not just the count.
  • Pricing a material list — multiply boards by price per board for a fast, defensible budget line.
True cost

Waste factor: how much extra lumber to buy

Order the exact run and you will come up short. Every cut leaves a piece too short to reuse, some boards arrive cupped, bowed or split and get culled, and layouts change once the work starts. A waste margin covers all of it.

The 10–15% rule

For straight, simple runs of framing, 10% is the standard margin. For walls with many door and window openings, or a cut list full of short awkward lengths that don't divide cleanly into stock board lengths, go to 15% — the drop waste from trimming long boards into short parts adds up fast. The calculator defaults to 10% and adjusts from 0 to 25%.

Why board length matters as much as the percentage

Two boards of the same total length can waste at completely different rates. A run of 5-foot parts cut from 8-foot boards leaves a 3-foot offcut every time — over a third wasted — while the same parts from 10-foot boards (two 5-footers, no drop) waste almost nothing. Matching board length to your part lengths often saves more than padding the waste percentage.

Match the board length to your cut list
Before you set a waste percentage, look at your part lengths and pick a board length they divide into cleanly. Less drop waste means fewer boards and a smaller bill — and it is free.
Definitions

Lumber definitions

One foot of length of a board, regardless of its width or thickness. A run of "100 linear feet of 2×6" means 100 feet measured end to end, however many separate boards that takes.
The volume unit for lumber: a piece 1 inch thick, 12 inches wide and 1 foot long. Board feet = nominal thickness(in) × nominal width(in) × length(ft) ÷ 12. A 2×6 is exactly 1 board foot per linear foot; a 2×4×8 ft board is 5.33 board feet.
The name a board is sold under — 2×4, 2×6 — taken before it is dried and planed. A "2×4" is nominally 2" × 4" but measures 1.5" × 3.5" once surfaced. Length is not affected.
The real dimensions of a surfaced board after drying and planing. A 2×4 is 1.5" × 3.5", a 2×6 is 1.5" × 5.5", a 4×4 is 3.5" × 3.5". Use these when you need parts to fit.
Softwood boards milled to standard nominal sizes (2×4 up to 2×12, plus 1× and 4× stock) and sold in fixed lengths. The framing lumber this calculator is built around.
The extra percentage bought above the calculated run to cover offcuts, culled defective boards and layout changes. Typically 10% for simple runs, 15% for complex or short-part cut lists.
Sources

Sources and references

The nominal-vs-actual sizing, the board-foot formula, and the waste-factor guidance follow standard lumber and framing references:

Accuracy

How accurate is this lumber calculator?

The board math is exact. Dividing your linear feet by the board length and rounding up gives the precise number of whole boards, and the board-foot figure uses the standard nominal-size formula to the decimal. If your linear-feet total is right, the board count is right.

The estimate's accuracy lives in two inputs you control. First, the linear-feet total: it must come from a real cut list or takeoff — the calculator can't see the offcuts your part lengths will create, so a run of awkward short pieces may need more than the count suggests even with waste added. Second, price: lumber prices swing with the market, the species and the grade, so treat the cost as a planning figure and confirm it at the yard. When in doubt, round the waste factor up — a spare board is cheaper than a second trip.

Questions

Frequently asked questions about the free lumber calculator

A lumber calculator is a free online tool that helps you estimate how many boards, board feet, and dollars of dimensional lumber a project needs from total linear feet. Lumber is bought in fixed-length boards but planned in total run length, so the calculator turns linear feet into whole boards, board feet, and cost. It runs entirely in your browser with instant results and no sign-up.
No. The nominal name (2×4) is the rough size before drying and planing; the actual surfaced board is 1.5 in × 3.5 in. Only thickness and width shrink — a 12 ft board really is 12 ft. Use nominal to order and tally board feet, actual to check fit.
Add up the end-to-end length of every piece of that lumber size from your cut list or takeoff — all the studs, plates, joists, rim, and blocking. That total run, in feet, is what the calculator divides by your board length.
10% for straight, simple runs. Go to 15% for walls with many openings or a cut list full of short awkward parts that don't divide cleanly into stock board lengths, where drop waste from trimming adds up.
Two boards of the same total length can waste very differently. Cutting 5 ft parts from 8 ft boards leaves a 3 ft offcut each time; the same parts from 10 ft boards leave none. Matching board length to your part lengths often saves more than padding the waste percent.
Nominal, following the lumber-yard convention: a 2×4×8 ft board is (2 × 4 × 8) ÷ 12 = 5.33 board feet, not the 3.5 you'd get from the actual 1.5 in × 3.5 in face. That's how yards price and quote volume.
About

About this lumber calculator

This lumber calculator runs entirely in your browser. Nothing you enter is uploaded or stored — every figure is computed locally the moment you change an input, so you can try board lengths, sizes, and waste margins as fast as you can type. The board math is exact; the cost is an estimate that moves with your local price per board.

Need related material estimates? See the construction calculators shelf for concrete, plywood, decking, and more, or browse every tool in the full calculator directory.

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